Stockmans sale - hope or dispair?

The huge numbers shopping in the "madness days" sale in Stockmans this last few days tell a tale. What that tale is though is unclear. On one hand it may be a sign that the recent election has brought hope of a recovery. Certainly the idea that a Dombrovskis-led coalition of virtually the whole Parliament, including the minority speakers is unusual, outside of Finland that is - where it is normal (and very successful) business. But apart from this step into the political unknown, it is hard to find evidence of solid improvement. More on this later.

Of course the sale may just have been a welcome relief from the rather bleak couple of years that many have suffered. Sadly another hard winter looks to be on the cards for many with heating bills likely to just as bad again. Coming back regularly from Bulgaria that is in much the same state, I see many similarities with excessively large cars living side by side with beggars. But there I have seen many horses and carts on the roads, they seem to have disappeared here!

But has Riga started to show signs of improvement? The signs here are mixed. But I do feel that there has been no more general downward movement over the summer. Flat prices for rent and sale continue to fall steadily despite the bizarre "talking up" of the real estate companies trying to get investors onto the hook. The number of beggars and visible alcoholics is growing slowly but steadily - sadly too many of them are dying young and unnamed as the monthly newspaper reports show. Shops are still closing regularly but Latvia is showing amazing robustness in this regard as new shops, bars, clubs and cafes seem to open immediately. Only a few places seem to stay stubbornly closed, and I suspect that the owners are simply asking too much rent.

Sadly "service" still sucks in Riga and is a common comment from tourists. Typically, museums close when people want to visit - as I found to my cost when my mother and sister came recently. It is also noticeable that shop prices have started to creep up again. This is foolishness as those who charge too much will be penalised by the public. One clothes shop I frequent was expensive two years ago but has managed to gather a great collection of clothes at modest prices and kept the look and feel of an expensive store. Their service is great too. It can be done. But I went to the chemists at Riga airport last week and the girl was seriously rude and offhand. It is so simple to be polite and helpful - it brings customers back. She clearly thought I was a tourist so it doesn't matter! Her mistake. Now she is immortalised as being rude in print.

But there has to be some change if we are going to make headway. Last year along with my business colleague Bill from UK we worked with the Ministry of Economy at Under Secretary level to help them understand how to use the European funds to create transformation using LEAN business processes. We wrote presented and ran seminars. We helped them produce a plan and helped them with the bill for Parliament. But at every stage they watered down the proposals so that responsibility would be transferred to LIAA and the associations and no one in the Ministry would have to do any work. We told them directly in print that their plan was wrong and would fail. Simply, LIAA and the Associations did not have the experience or capacity to do this work The measures were accepted by cabinet and two weeks ago the head of the Investment Agency LIAA Andris Ozols told me directly that the plan had failed and the money (a huge amount) had been lost with no effect. Last week I saw that the Associations had written to the PM for him to do something. They have short memories. I offered to help them for nothing and they refused. They deserve to fail. Reality has to be accepted sooner or later. The level of manufacturing and organisational knowledge here is low and will only be improved by purchasing skilled foreign help.

This week I am running a business forum in Riga (details on my website

www.latvia-business.com). What has amazed me is the number of my contacts who have changed jobs or their companies no longer exist. At least 60% of my business cards are now out of date and few of them are more than 2 years old. Many of the people are now abroad. It reflects a huge national change. We shall see in the coming months if this is change for the better.

Have we turned a corner or is this a false dawn?

The last few weeks have been quite difficult for me. I have been trying hard to find new clients and have only found people who were clearly worse off than me. I have been looking at the evidence of what is happening really hard but it is difficult to call. There is a noticeable increase in traffic on the roads, almost back to old times. People are going about their business and daily lives with apparent normality.

But my instinct is to think that this normality covers a whole multitude of sins. The number of Pardod (for sale) signs continues to rise (although I am pleased that my friend Alexanders who runs Mobius selling expensive British Vertu mobile phones has opened another shop in the old town) but in general there still appear to be more businesses closing than opening. There are almost NO adverts on the trams and buses. The exceptions are the big mobile phone companies who are having their own battle royal for our ears and fine words. The prices in most shops have dropped agin. Some have put up prices but they don't seem to have customers. I cannot ever remember seeing any people in one or two shops - but still they stay there. One or two have grasped the nettle and have reinvented themselves to a new lower price level quite successfully. The pubs are mainly empty except for those used by tourists. One nightclub I heard about had no one at all one day last week. Heating bills will arrive this month and that means a direct export to pay for energy- well if people can pay that is. In opposition, the National Bank Governor says we have turned a corner.

We are at the point where the international community (IMF, EU, Swedish banks etc) is demanding that 500m Lats are cut from the government budget. Now some of this will stay in circulation but there are bound to be more effects and they cannot be positive. Tax rises cannot stimulate anything, even accountancy firms!

So my instinct is that what we see is the tip of the iceberg. The big bad bit is under the surface, and with lots of sharp edges. What is amazing is the stoical way society continues its daily round. I suppose that after occupation by the Nazis and USSR, this is just another bit of stress to be suffered. It is just a shame that this time the punishment is being meted out by Latvians upon themselves.

CALM BEFORE THE STORM

President Zattlers has gone on record now saying that he thinks people do not trust him. Well no one that I speak to thinks of him as anything other than a puppet of the ruling Tautas Party. They have now dropped in the polls to a little over 2%. If I recall rightly, this is even less than Mugabe gets in Zimbabwe and that must be saying something. At least unlike that unhappy country, we do not seem yet to be on the way to a million Lat note to buy a pack of chewing gum. In my local food shop prices this week have actually dropped for staples like milk and Cadburies fruit and nut chocolate, and supermarket chain Rimi are price busting hard by bringing in their own brands for coffee and cereals. The coffee was half the price of other brands. I just wish they were running the heating company for Riga. Heating prices are absurd and getting worse.

Whilst people watching this week, it is clear that we are becoming a nation of haves and have nots. The haves are still spending like there is no future. In the Spy Bar (which was full) on Thursday, students were happily drinking beer at 2 lats 50 a litre and did not seem as worried as I was about the prices. And the cafes are still full of people eating out. But the real cuts have not yet come. The government have announced that the public kindergartens will close for a month in July. That will have an immediate effect on the pockets of many families - or there will be a lot of grandmas on childminding duty.

My feeling now is that we will have another month or two at this stage of the recession. Then the high level of unemployment payments will drop dramatically and the national money flow will reduce. It will take two months or so for this to have an adverse effect on small companies and then another round of redundancies will start. June and July are the test months. If we get lots of tourists we might survive, but if not then I predict that the number of "for sale" and "for rent'' signs will climb dramatically.